Month: July 2021

Ahh…. Maine in the Summer…..

          Warm days…

          Cool nights…

          Gorgeous lakes…

          Incredible shorelines….

          (Mosquitos!)…..

          And of course……

          Bah Haba and Lobsta!

          Or, if you are not from around these here parts where, “Ya can’t theah from heah”, you would pronounce it, ‘Bar Harbor’ and ‘Lobster’.    And to be fair, there are places in Maine (it would seem) that ‘you can’t get there from here’ because there is only one major road in Maine and that’s Interstate 95 and its cousins. After that, there are 14 billion side roads, none of which are straight.                                                               But that just adds to the adventure!

          Our campsite for this leg of the “Great Northeastern Road Expedition” was The Birches Campground on Cobbosseecontee Lake.

          Yes, that is correct. I’m not even going to tell you all the rest of the lakes and rivers names. By comparison, this one was easy to pronounce.

          Our site here was apparently something special, and in fact, was.

          My first hint should have been when I made the reservation several months ago. The lady on the other end of the line that helped me, said,

          “Oh my, R-20 appears to be available!”

          “Is that good?” I asked.

          “Yes it is! It is one of our most requested sites.”

          “Well, alrighty then! Let’s book it! Is it any more expensive than the other comparable sites?”

          “Nope, all the same.”

          The second hint came when we checked in at the Guardhouse when we arrived. We pulled up to the gate and the nice young lady opened her window and welcomed us. I gave her my name and when she looked at her check-in sheet and then back up at me, there was a chorus of angelic voices that came out of nowhere, accompanied by a heavenly beam of sunshine that fell upon her starry-faced countenance as she proclaimed, “You’re in R-20!!!”

          “Uhh, yea, so I’ve been told. Well thank-you,” I replied as she handed me the map of the Campgrounds with our site indicated on it.

          “Please proceed to the office in the store, they’ll complete your check-in.”

          Another nod of affirmation from me and we were on our way to the office.

          We pulled up in front and I went to the counter. The lady behind it said, “You must be Don Hall”. I said something that I thought was funny, like, “You must have a crystal ball” or something like that.

          She smiled and replied, “No sir, just this here radio!” as she held up her hand to reveal her two-way communication device used with the Guard House. Smiling again and checking her roster she said with a respectful whisper, “You’re in R-20.”

          By now my highly tuned instincts have deduced that there must be something special about site R-20. They were confirmed as ‘Lady Behind the Counter’ shouted to her fellow workers, “THESE GUYS HAVE R-20!”

          Desk Lady called out on her radio, “Escort needed at check -in.”

          “Someone will be right here to lead you to your site, sir.”  She proceeded to go over some basic rules and regulations as we waited for our escort.

          We were led nicely through this wonderfully kept campground. It was apparent that most of the sites were occupied by full-season renters, and many of those had obviously been here for years upon years because, you can’t make that many improvements to a site in just one season! There were rock walls, storage sheds, comfortable decks with screened-in sections, and a myriad of beautiful perennial flowers and shrubs to accent their particular sites.

          We were led all the way through the campground right to the front, right next to the unpronounceable lake.

          The only site on the lake!

          Our escort indicated our site with his arms and hands as if he were guiding a jet into a gate at the airport. He saluted and drove away.

          As soon as we settled into the site and proceeded to hook everything up, the lady next door, (an obvious “full-timer”) came out of her abode in a housedress and began explaining why we shouldn’t park our car where we had put it, and then went on to ask, “How’d you get R-20? Only a few folks get this one, it’s sold-out seasons in advance!”

          I just said, “Beginner’s luck I guess!” and went about the tasks of the final stages of making sure all was secure with the hook-ups.

          After finishing everything up, we had a chance to really appreciate where we were. Looking around we realized that we were the only site right on the lake and since our “Entertaining Side” (the side with the door and big awning) was on the lake side, we came to see how private this site was. No sharing of that side with anyone but the fishes and loons on the lake.

          We truly had happened upon a slice of Heaven in Maine!

          We were in Maine to visit Paula’s son, Brian, and his wife April, and her two kids, Jay and Stella. Brian and April live in a house that was built in the 1700’s and has been added on to, and modified, ever since. Brian is a Master Electrician so his ‘Tradesman Skills’ have come in handy as they are completely renovating their home along with caring for a gazillion chickens and other kinds of domesticated fowl that provide one and all with delicious eggs! They also have a prodigious garden whose surplus gets canned and stored for the long, cold, Maine winter!

          We were also going to do some sightseeing and determined that the best day for an excursion to the Coast and Acadia National Park would be on Thursday. So fore-armed with this information, Brain and April took that day off so they could accompany us. In preparing for the trip, it seems that the road to the top of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia is so popular that you need to reserve a time slot in order to go up there. Ours was from 9:30 to 10:00 AM. It provides a 360-degree panorama of the surrounding, bays and islands that is something to behold!

          Or so we were told.

Because when we arrived and started to drive to the 1500’ summit, we encountered clouds at 1400’ so that meant that we were ‘fogged in’ at the top.

          Oh well….

          We were able to get some nifty views from the pull-offs on the road on on our way back down. There is always next time!

          We worked our way around Mount Desert Island, which has most of the action when it comes to the Park, including the quaint little town of Bar Harbor. We decided that even though it was only 10:30 in the morning, that we would stop and get lunch before the crowds showed up. We had started our day on the early side because the drive to Acadia was about two and a half hours, so we commenced our sojourn around 6 AM (with no breakfast) and were getting a tad hungry.

          Apparently every other person in the Park, B&B, cruise ship, and hotel had the same idea. There was not even one slot to pull into in the entire town!

          I’m afraid to think what it looked like as the day progressed!

          So, back onto the Park Loop Road that circumnavigated the island. It is gorgeous and it is easy to see how and why this place is so popular, even back before the turn of the century, before it gained recognition as a local park and then was elevated to National Park status, the first National Park in the East!

          There were the usual ‘Industrial Tycoons’ that made these environs their summer homes and vacation destinations. Not the least of which was John D. Rockefeller Jr. who had the resources to “put his money where his mouth was” and decided that some nice carriage roads and bridges, worked deftly into the surrounding landscapes, would be a nice way to experience this area. Not only did he provide all the funds for the roads and bridges, but he also personally helped design and build these structures. He even took the time to learn the names of the workers that were constructing everything. One can still enjoy a fine carriage ride on these winding paths through the forests and seaside cliffs of Acadia National Park.

          Since we were not able to procure any vittles and libations in Bar Harbor we decided to delve into our Emergency Cheese Stick and Potato Chip Supply for a snack to hold us over until we got back on the mainland and down to Belfast. Belfast is one of Maine’s largest ports and has the requisite seafood restaurants to prove it. We dined at The Nautilus, (no… NOT the gym!) on the deck overlooking the harbor. The weather was perfect and so was our fare. Lobster Mac’n Cheese, Lobster Roll, Lobster Grilled Cheese, and Lobster Beer (only kidding, but you get my drift) were just a few items that we enjoyed that afternoon.

          Before we arrived in Belfast, we made a quick stop in Searsport so that I could run into BlueJacket Model Ships and pick up a few things. As you may imagine, this was a nirvana of sorts for me!

After lunch, April went to one of the cute stores that seem to proliferate along and in, these coastal towns, such as, Camden, Rockland, Boothbay Harbor, and of course, Bar Harbor (if you can get there!). April needed some kind of special wool for a project she was working on. Her cable-knit sweaters are works of art and get only the best wool in them!

          Back at Brian and April’s house we bid all farewell, as this was our last full day in Maine. The next morning, we left for Vermont and visit to Paula’s sister, Barbara, for a few days before returning to New Jersey, the Northeastern Home Port.

My goal when venturing into a region that I have previously not been exposed to is to try and get as much information as possible and to do that I try and find a source that has the most credibility.

          In Gloucester, Massachusetts, home of the oldest fishing fleet in North America, my goal was far surpassed when I chanced upon Harold Burnham and his schooner Ardelle.

          When it came to taking the fam on a cruise in Gloucester Harbor well, it didn’t get any better than Harold and his boat. While I am sure that there are other very nice enterprises out there that can provide one with a memorable experience, I am equally sure that very few, (none!) that has the heritage and knowledge of Harold Burnham, Master Shipwright, and multi-generational wooden ship builder.

          Harold built the Ardelle along with other classic Gloucester fishing schooners in the next town over, Essex. Essex has been the site of a plethora of shipyards since the 1600’s so that line runs deep and true when it comes to the building of traditional (read seaworthy!) Gloucester sailing vessels.

          Upon our arrival at the docks of  Maritime Gloucester, we were heartily greeted by Harold and K.D. his “First Mate” of sorts. K.D. holds a Master’s License for up to 50 GWT (Gross Weight Tons) ships and needs a few more “days” of sailing to get her Sailing (wind-powered) Endorsement on her license. Harold is her “instructor” and can sign off on her logbook of experience. When she has the required number of days, she will be eligible for the Coast Guard exam. From the looks of things, she will have no problems passing with the proverbial ”Flying Colors”, a term which coincidentally, has a nautical genesis to it. Back in the day, when ships went to sea for battle, they would return to port with their flags flying to indicate a successful voyage and lowered if they had been defeated. Hence the term ‘Flying Colors“ has been used to describe something that has been completed very successfully!

          K.D. took charge of the embarkation and skillfully backed us out of the berth and into the harbor with one long blast on the horn indicating “getting underway”, followed by three short blasts (backing up). A small pleasure power boat apparently did not understand the meaning of the signals and while there was no danger, probably should have “gave way” and let us proceed first.

          No worries, all part of the learning process.

          Once we had cleared the dock area K.D. turned the helm over to Harold and enlisted the help of the “crew”, namely Augustus, Adelaide, and Eleanor in hoisting the jib and sails. The kids are starting sailing lessons at the Manchester-by-the-Sea Yacht Club in a few days, and I told Harold to “put them to work”! Donny and Hilary also joined in and soon the sails were catching the steady breeze out in the harbor.

          While K.D. and the “Maties” were engaged in the hoisting of the sails, Harold greeted and shouted salutations to practically every boat that we passed. It seems that Harold is about as well known around here as anyone can be. In fact, he built (or owned) any number of the vessels that we passed, each with a story unto itself.

          Our voyage was steady and relatively calm, much to the satisfaction of those on board that suffer from a possible case of motion distress. On our way out, K.D. engaged her ‘crew’ with a lesson in knots and had each one successfully tie a “Daisey Chain” which keeps a long line neat and tidy while allowing you to un-do it with just one pull on the bitter end, kind of a disappearing knot as it were.

          We had watched the weather forecasts all week long hoping for promising conditions for this outing. The Weather Idiots had the day not looking good at all and we kind of inched our way through the week, checking the forecast as we went along. Luckily, the Maritime Gods, namely King Neptune and his Court, smiled favorably on us and we had perfect weather for sailing. The lesson here is to not pay any attention to the Prognosticators of Doom and just go about your plans!

          The weather was so good that we passed the end of the harbor jetty and out into the open ocean until we rounded the Queen Ann’s Cow buoy, (a local term) named because the sound that it gives off is not unlike the mooing of a cow. This is accomplished by a bellows arrangement inside the buoy that rise and falls with the action of the waves.

           It sounded very content. 😊

          On our return to the harbor proper, a seagull alighted upon the shoulder of K.D.

          This was “Mooch” a friend of theirs that has an affinity for Cheese Doodles which K.D. was more than happy to provide. Seagulls are very opportunistic eaters, which was very well illustrated by his presence on the Ardelle. When some of their friends and acquaintances suggested that they may want to feed Mooch some thing a little more nutritious, Mooch promptly rebelled.

          So, Cheese Doodles it is!

          As we got close to port, we passed Ten-Pound Light which was familiar to me from the movie “The Perfect Storm”. Ten Pound Island was the home of Winslow Homer, as a lighthouse-keeper, and you can see the replication of the rocks and environs in some of his art.

          K.D skillfully guided us back to our berth with Harold giving helpful suggestions along the way, such as, the best way to utilize a spring line in bringing the boat in and snugging it up to the dock.

          Fond farewells were exchanged and Harold and K.D. mentioned that they don’t remember ever having a better-behaved group of kids on their boat, a nice compliment indeed.

          So, when you come to Cape Ann, look no further than the Ardelle and Harold, et al, to provide you with a wonderful nautical experience on the waters of historic Gloucester, Massachusetts.

          And say Hi! to Mooch for us!

I remember it well.

          Halloween, 1991, the date of the Perfect Storm.

          My Grandmother had a house on the bay in Beach Haven West on the Jersey Shore, and to me, the weather at the shore was more important than the weather at home.

          Cleaning up after a “Big One” was always a challenge. And besides, my boat, Daydream Believer, (I love The Monkees!) was  innocently wintering on the side of the house, hopefully high enough to prevent her from floating down the street!

          All ended ok, just the usual post-storm clean and fix-up needed.

          Fast forward nine years to June of 2000.

          Sebastian Junger’s best-selling book, The Perfect Storm, was made into a movie and released.

          I was there on Opening Day and even got the movie poster from the lobby! I guess that there was something about both the story and my connection to storms along the East Coast that drew me in. I was not disappointed and promptly fell in love with Gloucester, Massachusetts, which was the home port of the Andrea Gail, the sword fishing boat that was the main storyline in the book.

          I really wanted to visit there and see for myself the place where her trip began.

          Fast-forward another twenty-one years and here we are, just a stone’s throw away from the port of Gloucester, the oldest fishing port in the United States. The fishing industry started here in the 1600’s and has been a mainstay of the area ever since. I can still taste the Gorton’s of Gloucester Fish Sticks that my mom made us every Friday when we were kids!

          We are here at the Cape Ann Campsites for about a week visiting with my son Donny and his family. Donny, Hilary, Augustus, Adelaide and Eleanor, along with Mali the dog, and eight new baby chickens have been living here for about two weeks now, having just purchased their first home in Manchester-by-the Sea, one of the three main towns on Cape Ann. The other two are the aforementioned Gloucester, and the other is Rockport, which is situated out on the easternmost tip of Cape Ann.

          The connection to the sea in these environs is so strong that you can taste it! Which we did on our first night here. Donny brought us to Woodman’s, a water-side seafood eatery that has been run by the same family for over a hundred years and is still thriving.  USA Today has named it the “Best Seafood Shack in America”. A taste of their fare is all that is needed to see why. From the ubiquitous lobster rolls to the incredible battered and fried sea scallops, we were not disappointed and are eagerly awaiting a return voyage to them, but this time we may order smaller portions because there was no way to finish all of it!

          The shipbuilding industry, while not as thriving as it once was back in the day, is still present here on Cape Ann. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we will be sailing on the Ardelle,  a schooner built here on the Cape by her owner and Captain, Harold Burnham. Harold is a Master Shipwright, and his family has been building classic Cape Ann ships for generations. It will be only us on the boat. Augustus, Adelaide, and Eleanor are starting three weeks of sailing lessons on Monday and my plan is to give them an exciting introduction to this sport.

          We shall see!